Amalfi Coast - Praiano, Positano, and Capri
This travel guide outlines the four days my family spent on the Amalfi Coast during our trip to Italy last summer. We travelled down to the coast from Tuscany, but it's most common to fly in to Rome or Naples. We based ourselves in Praiano and made day trips to neighbouring towns. Read on for my favourite restaurants, beaches, and shops we discovered along the way!
Day 1: Arrive in Praiano
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Praiano
We chose Praiano as our home base for our Amalfi Coast trip. It's a quieter, less touristy, and, therefore, less expensive version of Positano, yet only 20 minutes down the road. After spending time in the bustling town in Positano, my family was grateful that we chose this slightly sleepy town to call home at the end of each day. This small village had an amazing selection of restaurants, beach clubs, and close to proximity for day trips to rest of the coast.
Private Transfers with Rome Cabs
Driving along the windy roads of the Amalfi coast during peak season is not for the faint of heart! If you are looking for a stress-free transportation option, I would highly recommend Rome Cabs. We used this car service for all of our transfers while in Italy. We were picked up by a private driver in an air-conditioned vehicle, and the service was always punctual and professional. A private transfer is by far the fastest way to the coast from Rome or Naples airports, but there's also the option of trains and buses, depending on your starting destination. We also didn't feel the need to rent a car while we were there given the many options for traveling between towns on the coast.
Villa Gaetano
We found the perfect Villa Gaetano on Airbnb, which was a great accommodation option for our group of five. We wanted a place where we could cook meals together and spend time outdoors, and the outdoor dining terrace with lemon trees overlooking the Medditeranian was a total bonus. There are plenty of great hotel options in town if you are traveling in a smaller group or are looking for some extra hospitality. Hotel Margarita or Casa Angelina would have been my picks! My one tip to keep in mind when searching for accommodations is to consider how many stairs stand in between your place and the beach. Praiano, like all of the towns along the coast, is built into the rocky cliffs. Most hotels are located off the main road, Amalfi Drive. Our Villa was located one street above Amalfi Drive, and it was still quite the hike up from the beach.
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Dinner at Kasai
Kasai is a gem of restaurant, with amazing dishes, a great wine list and breathtaking views! The staff were warm and friendly. Request a table outside - also be sure to make reservations. They only take reservations by phone, but you can have your hotel concierge or airbnb host call for you. I had the truffle pasta which was my favourite meal during our entire trip, and my dad loved the salted cod. This restaurant is a MUST if you are on the Amalfi coast.
Day 2: Praiano Beach Day
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Il Pirata Beach Club
Public beaches along the Amalfi coast are few and far between - enter the beach club. For about 20 euros per chair, you can enjoy a day of good music, great food, and amazing scenery. We spent our first day in Praiano at Il Pirata, just down from the Marina di Praia, which is a beach club and restaurant by day and club by night. This place was packed, so I would definitely recommend making reservations online and going early in the morning to get your choice of beach chair. While the beach club is located a bit above sea level, there are stairs that bring you down to a swimming platform. I personally loved watching all of the boats coming in and out of the Marina all day (with a cocktail in hand)!
If you are looking for more of a party vibe for your Beach Day, check out One Fire beach on the other side of Praiano.
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Dinner at Trattoria da Armandino
Trattoria d Armandino is located right at the water at the Marina di Praia. It's a family run restaurant with mainly seafood dishes. It had a very authentic feel and great value. We loved the lemon risotto and spaghetti alle vongole!
Day 3: Positano
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Water Taxi to Positano
Water taxi is the best way to get between Positano and Praiano! There's so much to see from sea level. There were plenty of companies at the marinas in both Positano and Praiano that you can choose from. Another option is to use the SITA bus which also makes stops in both towns.
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Brunch at Case e Bottega
Brunch at Casa e Bottega was exactly what we needed after days of pasta! This restaurant makes you feel like your in California rather than Positano, but it was fun to switch up the cuisine. Within the restaurant is a store that sells beautiful ceramics and home goods, so make sure to save time after your meal for a bit of shopping.
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Shopping along Via Pasitea
Via Pasitea is one of the main roads that winds through Positano. You'll find a variety of shops for souvenirs, ceramics, and linens. As you climb higher, the views get better and better! My favourite purchase was a pair of sunglasses at Emporio Sireneuse, the boutique associated with Le Sireneuse, one of the most well known and charming hotels in Positano.
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Cocktails at Le Petit Murat
Once you've strolled in and out of every shop on Via Pasitea and the afternoon sun is at it's peak, you'll want to make your way to Hotel Palazzo Murat for a some shade and a cocktail. Just inside the doors and to your right is the most charming courtyard bar, Le Petit Murat, with plush couches, warm service and an amazing spritz menu! Le Petit Murat is walk-in only and open to anyone. We also heard great things about Franco's Bar at Le Sireneuse, but unfortunately it was closed when we were there. Please check it out for me!
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Grocery shopping and dinner at our villa
One of the reasons we chose to stay at an Airbnb was the option of cooking our own meals. My family loves to cook, and after having been in Italy for over a week at this point we were filled with inspiration! We were nearby the main grocery store in Praiano, Marino Tutto per Tutti, and it had everything we needed to make our own delicious Italian dinner.
Day 4: Capri
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Small Group Boat Tour with Positano Boats
We booked a small group tour with Positano boats for our day on Capri. There were about 10 of us in total, and we were picked up at 9am directly at the Marina in Praiano. We sailed over to Capri on a Gozzo boat and all the way around the island before being dropped off for some free time on the island. On the way back, we sailed through the famous Faraglioni rocks and stopped to swim in a cove along the shore. There's also the option to check out the Blue Grotto for an additional cost, but the lines were extremely long and our group decided to pass in exchange for some extra swimming time. We were home by 5pm. I'd highly recommend this tour with Positano Boats. It was the perfect way to experience Capri and spend some time on the water.
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Touring the Isle of Capri
Once we landed on Capri, it was a game of choose your own adventure. Some of our group stayed down at the public beach and went swimming and the rest of us made our way up to the main square for treats and shopping. There are public buses right outside of the marina that will take you up to the top of the island where you will find the main square, shops, and restaurants. Be sure to have cash on hand as you will buy your bus ticket when you board. You can also hire a taxi (they have these very fun Italian convertibles!) to take you up and down, which we opted to do on our way down instead of waiting in line for the bus.
There plenty of souvenir and linen shops, similar to the ones you'll find in Positano, but there's also high-end designer boutiques.
We had some delicious gelato at Buonocore Gelateria Pasticceria Gastronomia e Tavola Calda, just outside of the main square.